Recommended SUPPLY LIST for classes, 2011

Attached at the bottom is a printable .doc of the supply list.

Suggested places to buy supplies:

• Plaza Artist Materials, rear of “Pier One” shopping center, Rockville. A very nice store, not too expensive. There is also a Plaza Art in Bethesda and one in Silver Spring.
• Michael’s Craft Stores in Aspen Hill, Rockville, etc; some watercolor supplies but small tubes of paint.
• On the web at www.cheapjoes.com (Cheap Joe’s Art Supply) and at www.dickblick.com (Dick Blick Art Materials) or www.jerrysartarama.com (Jerry’s Artarama).

• any large palette with lots of mixing room, and at least 16 wells for paint.
• the Cheap Joe’s Piggy-back Palette is the one I use, and a very good one—about $18; also the Robert Wood palette

• The best brushes are real kolinski sable (they hold the most liquid and are the most resilient) or a sable-blend, but synthetic would be OK for now. The Winsor & Newton “Artist’ Water Colour Sable” is a relatively inexpensive line of brushes that I recommend. Get the following sizes (roughly):
• 1 ½ inch flat wash brush
• ¾ - 1 inch flat brush (could wait on this)
• ½ inch flat brush (could wait)
• round brushes in #12, #10, #8, #6, #4, #2, #0
• rigger brushes (very long hairs) in #2 and #1
• some cheap stencil brushes, small and medium

• Arches 140 lb.cold pressed: get about 5 16x20” sheets or 2 of the 22 x 30” sheets, both to cut down; or if you don’t want to have to stretch paper, get the Arches 300 lb paper

• Masking fluid (I like Daler-Rowney because it pulls off in a sheet), a “Masquepen” (masking fluid in a little needle bottle—available at Plaza Art), 3-M drafting tape, graphite transfer paper (Saral is best brand), Magic Eraser by Mr. Clean, Homasote board or Gatorboard (I can sell you these). I always provide sponges, erasers, rulers, paper towels and water containers, so you don’t have to bring these. We have many of these items, along with paint and paper, in our little Studio Store. Prices are about what you would pay retail or perhaps a little more.

• Buy professional grade paints that are light-fast. Don’t buy student grade. The following are paints I usually have on my palette and I highly recommended. The asterisk ( * ) means it is essential, while the others will eventually be nice. I tend to use Winsor & Newton and Holbein, but other professional brands are probably fine.